To this point, I have:

• Pulled all of the wiring out from under the hood, except the Starter Relay
• Pulled all of the wiring under the car (fuel pump, taillight, a #4 mystery ground running the length of the car, an old Neutral Safety wire that wasn’t connected on either end)
• Pulled the 8-switch painless switchbox.
• Made a plate to mount the circuit board to the cage and welded in some all-thread to the cage so 3 wingnuts secure it.
• Bench wired the circuit board, bundled wires going in various directions and mounted the board to the car
• Routed the wires going to the back or car and wired the fuel pump and taillights.
• Drilled a hole in the firewall to run bundles or wires wrapped in convoluted tubing for headlights, water pump, coil, fan, crank trigger, remote starter, temp gauge; and connected all of those except the remote starter.

Today, I started by removing the starter relay, as all of the relays are on the circuit board.

That was time consuming as all of those wires going down under the car were zip-tied every inch – before the engine was put in the car. The engine and 2.25″ headers are a very tight fit to the firewall. Clipping the zip ties off to pull those wires out was frustrating. The red wire in my fingers wasn’t connected at either end.

Moving inside the car didn’t get easier. The wiring I found was ugly. There was a mixture 63-year-old wires spliced into 16-year-old wires. There were 14-gauge wires of one color spliced to a 10-gauge of another color spliced to a 16-gauge of yet another color. The electrical tape adhesive immediately jumped of the tape and onto my fingers – requiring a pumice stone to get off. All of that looked like a colorful tumbleweed. It took a good while identifying what wire went to what and slowly cutting out and untangling the unnecessary wires (or the wires that will be replaced) without screwing up my gauges. There were all kinds of 12v wires coming into the car from the starter relay, multiple crusty ground wires, plus the mystery strategy of wiring up the line-lock and Neutral Safety Switch. It really took a lot more time than I’d expected to unravel that mess.

I got it mostly cleaned up.

Next was the Line-lock and Neutral Safety Switch. I have a PPP Shifter with the button for the line-lock and the Neutral Safety Switch as going through the starter relay – that has been eliminated. After studying the schematic (Chevy Door Car) and comparing to what I had, I was totally confused as I had more wires than their drawing. I talked to Kevin at K&R and he said the PPP Shifter has a different way of doing the line-lock and Neutral Safety from all other brands of shifters. Sadly, to make it happen I have to add a relay for the NSS and find a different power source for the line-lock. The below is how to make a PPP Shifter work with the K&R wiring. It’s a very rough sketch, but hopefully it will help someone be spared of grief.

This is taking three times longer than I thought. I have 25 hours into it so far. Part of it is I had Covid that put me in bed for 5 days, and I’m still not near 100% 14 days later. I’ve been limiting myself to 6-7 days to try to get better.

So next I will finish the neutral safety wiring into a relay, figure out the line-lock, sort out the gauges, bring main 16v power to the board, mount the ignition box and wire up, wire the remote switch, and run wires to the Starter Solenoid. Then it will be ready for the smoke test.